Sea Bass Branzino poached “all’acqua pazza” with olives, fresh tomatoes, parsley and lemon

My mother moved to Umbria from Sicily in 1962 and hardly ever cooked seafood except when we went back to her homeland for our summer holidays. At some mysterious and early time in the day, she left the house to go to the pier and buy fish directly from the boats that were just coming in after a night of work.

As a child, I never understood that odd behavior which felt so bold of my mother. It took me many years to completely understand why she would not buy seafood in landlocked Umbria. If you grow up with the divine freshness of just caught fish, you will never want anything else.

As a consequence of the relatively lower quality, in Umbria I rarely cooked fish. Luckily Rome is near the sea and I have easy access to great seafood. I  buy it at our neighbourhood market where only seasonal species are available and they are beautifully fresh.

Sea Bass (Spigola or Branzino in Italian) is a high-quality fish, known for its delicate, buttery flavor and its tender, flaky texture. You can also use Sea Bream (Orata) or other similar white fish. In Italy, fall is the best time to eat Sea Bass, while Sea Bream is available in summer.

This is a classic Neapolitan recipe with many variations and might include potato. The fish is poached in an aromatic concoction of wine, water, lots of herbs and fresh tomatoes named acqua pazza, meaning “crazy water”. No one seems to know the real reason for the name, but even if “crazy” I can guarantee you that is very delicious.

Recipe

Ingredients

• 1 white fish, cleaned (about 600 g i.e. 1 1/2 lb)
• 2 medium potatoes ( total about 250 g / 1/2 lb)peeled and cubed in 1.5 cm / 1/2 inch dice
• 15-20 cherry o small plum tomatoes, quartered
• 3 garlic cloves
• 1/2 onion (about 60 g / 2 0z)
• 2 tablespoon finely chopped flat leaf parsley, a few stems reserved
• peel of 1/2 lemon
• 1 teaspoon origano
• 1/2 cup white wine
• 2 tablespoon olives
• 1 teaspoon capers, rinsed

Directions

Sauté the potatoes, 1 clove of garlic, onion, and 4-5 stems of parsley in a tablespoon of extra virgin olive oil until the potatoes are slightly golden.

Wash the fish, cut off the tail if you wish, and season both inside and out with salt and black pepper. Insert 3-4 sprigs of parsley and two cloves of garlic into the cavity. Transfer it to the pan with the potatoes, increase the heat to medium-high.

Add the cherry tomatoes, lemon peel, olives, oregano, season lightly with salt, and sauté for another 7-8 minutes until the liquids has slightly reduced. Deglaze with white wine and, once the smell of alcohol has dissipated, add enough water to cover the fish halfway.

Cover the pan and continue cooking over medium heat for 10 minutes, checking after 5 minutes. Add water if the sauce becomes too thick.

The fish is done when its fins detach easily from the body. Fillet the fish and serve with the sauce, finely chopped parsley, and a drizzle of you best extra virgin olive olive oil.

Serves 2.