madonna del piatto

Classic Umbrian day trips: scenic drives, crafts, wine tasting and good family restaurants

Umbria is a small region, you can visit most of its marvelous hill-towns during a day trip from one central location in the region.
You will need a 4-5 days visit to see  the highlights, but there is enough to do for more than a week. The itineraries presented here have Assisi as a starting point and can be done by car in one day at a slow pace. From here, Orvieto and Norcia are the furthest away attractions in the region, about 1 and 1/2 hr. drive (100 km/ 62 miles). All the rest is within 30-50 min drive.

Day 1 –  Assisi
Day 2 –  Gubbio and Perugia
Day 3 –  Museums in Perugia
Day 4 –  Valnerina and Spoleto
Day 5 –  small villages: Bevagna, Montefalco, Foligno
Day 6 –  more small villages: Spello, Trevi, Castello di Campello
Day 7 –  Deruta and Torgiano
Day 8 –  Visso, Piano Grande di Colfiorito and Norcia
Day 9 –  Orvieto and  Todi
Day 10 – Trasimeno Lake round trip: Castiglione del Lago, Panicale Passignano

Even if using a GPS, make sure to have a 1:200 000 map of Umbria, available free at every tourist office. Some GPS get completely lost in the countryside and so will you! Do worry too much about road numbers. They are present on the maps but they will generally not be indicated on the roads. Just follow the signs to the town/village you are going to and,  to avoid mistakes,  learn  a couple of  names of places that are in the opposite direction.

I will not go into the details for touring each location because this is well covered in any good guidebook. However, I have included updated parking information for the larger towns. Parking lots of historic towns are often located outside the city walls. If you enter the gates you will be faced  with some difficult driving through the narrow lanes. In addition, parking inside the city walls is often forbidden or reserved to residents.

The little heart sign ♥ indicates restaurants or shops we particularly like for ambiance and quality

Day 1 - Assisi

Itinerary

To reach Assisi from other locations, take highway E75 and exit at  Santa Maria degli Angeli Nord. You will encounter a series of roundabouts most of which are numbered. At roundabout nr. 2 follow Santa Maria degli Angeli, a small village at the foothill of Assisi. Here is where you will arrive if you come by train. Once in Santa Maria degli Angeli drive along the huge church with a golden statue on the top of the facade. Drive straight on, initially along the church, then pass the railway and continue without taking any turn until roundabout nr.5 (approx. 3.5 km from the Church). Turn right uphill and park at Porta Nuova.

The Basilica of Saint Francis with the magnificent Giotto’s frescoes is the main but not the only reason to visit our town. Stroll through the narrow medieval alleys to the the Basilica of Saint Claire,  Piazza del Comune, romanesque San Rufino, the Rocca maggiore fortress. If the weather is nice drive to Eremo delle carceri on the Subasio Mountain and back downhill to the Porziuncola chapel inside the Basilica of Santa Maria degli Angeli.

Food

In Assisi:

• Trattoria degli Umbri. Andrea and Roberta are new to this restaurant business and do their best to welcome you like at their own home.Piazza del comune 40, closed Thu. Tel 075 812455
• ♥ Il Baccanale, Assisi centre, Via del Comune vecchio 2, near the Piazza Matteotti parking lot. A beautiful wine shop offering wines from all over Italy, exotic coffee, sweets and preserves.

In Santa Maria degli Angeli:

• Ristorante Basilica, reliable family business well known among locals, delicious fried appetizer, pizza available for dinner. Via Protomartiri Francescani 11, opposite the apse of church, closed Tue. Tel. 0758044491,.
• ♥ Terra Umbra, the best gourmet shop for all Umbrian foods. Offers olive oil tasting, chocolate, cheese, cured meats, truffles. Pick up your picnic stuff here. Via Patrono d’Italia 10.

Nearby:

Wine tasting

• The Sportoletti winery offers lovely reds, a basic Assisi Rosso and their famous Villa Fidelia.  It’s on the way from Assisi to Spello through the hamlets of Viole and Capitan Loreto Mon-Sat. 8:00-13:00 14:30-17:30

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Day 2– Gubbio and Perugia

Gubbio

If you are in the Assisi area and feel for a scenic route, drive from S.M. degli angeli towards Assisi or from Assisi towards Perugia until roundabout nr.5.

At the roundabout follow direction Perugia (SS 147), pass the Ponte San Vittorino (a bridge close to a bus and camper parking lot) and turn immediately to the right in Via San Fortunato. Do not take sharp right along the parking lot, but take the Via San Fortunato that goes uphill (other signs are for Pieve San Nicolo’, Paganzano, San Fortunato). Follow this road until Valfabbrica. Make sure not to take any turns into unpaved roads. Once in Valfabbrica turn right onto the main road. Follow signs for Gubbio via Branca and Padule. Once you have reached Gubbio, park at Piazza 40 Martiri, just below the old centre. Free parking is available in the area of the Roman amphiteather

Itinerary

At Piazza Grande, enter the Museo Civico within the Palazzo dei Consoli. Enjoy its labyrinthine medieval rooms and the great views from the upper loggia. Walk to the Duomo and after the visit, enter the tunnel that is across the entrance of the church, just a few steps below to your left. You will find a small cafe’ overlooking  the beautiful old town. After lunch, go to porta Romana and take the funicular to Monte Ingino for more views, it’s a thrilling 5 min. ride. Back from the mountain ride, visit the microscopic museum of the Ceramica a lustro (Luster-ware pottery) in the tower of Porta Romana, above the tobacco shop. Return to the Fontana del Bargello (the Fountain of the Mad) and then turn left along the river in Via Camignano which is the most picturesque way back to the parking area.

Food

• Taverna del Lupo is an expensive restaurant but the excellent traditional fare on offer deserves the extra effort. They have a few moderately priced fixed menus that give you the opportunity to sample the local cuisine at its best. Via Ansidei 21. Closed Mon. in winter. Tel. 0759274368.

Perugia

Directions and parking

The road from Gubbio to Perugia, SS 298 -well signposted from the centre of Gubbio-  is one of the most scenic of the region. When you reach Bosco take E45 and then E 75 to Perugia. Bypass industrial Ponte San Giovanni and exit at Perugia-Prepo. After this exit turn left at the first traffic light and then right, steep uphill, at the second traffic light, Via Fonti Coperte. This is a one way road that ends into Via XX Settembre. Keep going uphill until you see on your left a large blue sign indicating the underground parking lot at Piazza Partigiani. If you end up at a roundabout with a statue of Garibaldi in the centre of it, you have missed the entrance to the parking area. Keep turning left until you find another entrance of it. From the cashier area of the  parking lot take the escalator which takes you to the old city centre.

If you go to Perugia and plan to come back before 21:00 it’s much easier to park near the minimetro station. To find the station, drive on E75 and exit at Madonna Alta. Turn right and follow direction “stadio” (soccer stadium). Go straight for approx one Km after which you will see the stadium on your left and the entrance of a free parking area on you right. The parking is marked by a red and white bar preventing the entrance of high trucks.  This parking is used for a major market  on Saturday mornings when it is difficult to find place. The minimetro station is the red building. Take the minimetro until the last stop (Pincetto)

Itinerary
From the escalators or the minimetro station walk to Corso Vannucci and Piazza IV Novembre, one of the most beautiful medieval piazzas of Italy. The piazza is dominated by Palazzo dei Priori hosting the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, a medieval painting museum. Even if you do not have the time to see the museum, make sure to visit the frescoed Collegio del Cambio e della Mercanzia and Sala dei Notari, all accessible from outside the Palazzo. Walk towards the back of the Duomo, visit the Etruscan well (Piazza Danti nr. 18) and then walk through via delle Prome. Enjoy the views atop and walk down by the wonderful zig-zagging stairs until the 2200 years old Etruscan Gate, one of the few remnants of Etruscan civil architecture. If time allows, from this area and by Via Fabbretti you could visit the ♥ Giuditta Brozzetti textile workshop in the Church of San Francesco delle Donne  (difficult to find, call in advance 07540236).
Return through via C. Battisti along the Etruscan walls for views of the old town and of the XV century aqueduct which is now a picturesque raised walkway and arrive back to Piazza IV Novembre by Via Maesta’ delle Volte.

For more information on Collegio del Cambio visit a Journey of a Thousand miles

Food

• You can have a  simple lunch at Ristorante Brizi in Via Fabbretti 75, near the Arco Etrusco tel. 075 5721386 or at Il Gufo in Via della Viola 18, modern cuisine, closed Sun., Tel. 0755734126

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Day 3 – Museums in Perugia

Visit the Galleria Nazionale dell’Umbria, for an extraordinary collection of medieval and renaissance Umbrian and (some) Tuscan painters, including Perugino, Fra’ Angelico, Piero della Francesca e Arnolfo di Cambio. If you like portraits of the Virgin Mary, this is your day. After the museum, walk by Piazza Matteotti, Via San’Ercolano, Corso Cavour. Here you will find the huge Church of San Domenico which houses the Museo Archeologico dell’Umbria with an extensive Etruscan collection. Continue by Borgo XX Giugno to gothic San Pietro and the panoramic Medieval garden.

Food

• ♥ Da Nana’ in Corso Cavour 202. Beyond the non descript dark entrance you find a delightful airy, tall room and kind service. I dream regularly of their “millefoglie” dessert. The quality/price of this place makes it one of the best in Perugia at the moment. Closed Sun. and lunch time, Tel. 075 5733571

• L’Officina in Borgo XX Giugno 56, it’s one of the last shops on the left side when walking towards San Pietro. Ask around because it does not look like a restaurant. You’ll be surprised by the slick modern interiors and creative cuisine. Closed Sat.lunch and Sun., Tel 0755721699

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Day 4 - Valnerina and Spoleto

Valnerina

Take SS75 direction Spoleto and exit at Cascia. After the long tunnel follow signs for Scheggino and San Pietro in Valle. After Scheggino do not take the first turn for San Pietro in Valle. Instead turn further on at sign “S.Petro in Valle Relais”. Visit the Abbey, founded in the 4th century, for its magnificent archaic frescoes. Ask the guardian  to see the cloister and the garden which are part of the Hotel. The scenic road trough Montefranco brings you back to Spoleto.
In  Spoleto follow signs for the Spoleto Sfera parking lot, near the Api gas station. If coming from North, e.g. from Perugia or Assisi, take the second exit for Spoleto, immediately after the tunnel.

Spoleto

Spoleto is undergoing significant restoration, but most of the beautiful sights are accessible and worth visiting: Piazza del Mercato, Piazza della Liberta’, Piazza del Duomo, Romanesque Sant’Eufemia, the spectacular Ponte delle Torri.

Food

• In Valnerina, Ristorante del Ponte Scatolini in Scheggino is specialized in truffle dishes and trout , closed Mon., Tel. 0743 61253
• In Spoleto, have lunch at ♥ Osteria del Matto in piazza del Mercato. Great family cooking, one of the most fun experiences you will to have in an Umbrian restaurant. Closed Tue., Tel. 0743225506
• Il Tempio del gusto Via arco di Druso (near piazza del Mercato) is a pleasant alternative for those who like modern cuisine at reasonable prices. Closed Thu., Tel 0743/47121

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Day 5 - small villages: Bevagna, Montefalco, Foligno

Food

• Osteria Il Podesta’. Traditional trattoria with the best tagliata of the province and lovely desserts.
• Locanda Piazza Onofri. Lunch available only on weekends. A vast colletion of wines by the glass, great service and ambiance, lovely simple food. Closed Wed., Tel.0742361926

Montefalco

It’s tiny but has a splendid little piazza, and even more splendid frescos of Benozzo Gozzoli in the church of San Francesco, which is part of the museum.  After the frescoes walk downhill to the viewpoint outside the town walls. This is a particularly inspiring at sunset.

Wine tasting

• The Antonelli winery offers tasting of  Sagrantino, Grechetto, Grappa, Passito. It is located in San Marco di Montefalco, at Km 15 of the road between Bevagna and Massa Martana. Mon-Sat 8:30-12:30 14:30-18:30

Foligno

Foligno is not really a small village, but  a lively economic hub in the region sorrounded by a busy commercial area. The historic part, centred around Piazza della Repubblica is nice for a stroll and for the excellent eateries and cafes’, like Caffe Barbanera. It’s not easy to figure out where to park. Two parking areas are available near the old hospital (Ospedale Vecchio). If you can’t find them, just follow signs for centre. Once you cross the river into the old town, just park in any area marked by blue stripes and walk to the piazza, its not far. Do not forget to put a few coins in the parking meters!

Food

• Eating at ♥ Il Bacco felice it’s an experience for the soul. The eclectic owner, Salvatore Denaro is an artist of gastronomic showmanship. He is a believer in the absolute quality of ingredients, fresh and simply combined. The menu changes daily and there is hardly any choice and in any case he will tell you what to eat! Tell him you are my friend. Not easy to find, ask locally directions to Via Garibaldi 73, Tel 3356622659

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Day 6 - more small villages: Spello, Trevi, Castello di Campello

Spello

The view of the village from the road is stunning.  The main road and piazza are not particularly attractive, but the steep back streets and the splendid frescoes of Pintoricchio in the church of Santa Maria Maggiore make it worth a stop.

Food

• Ristorante Il Molino. An elegant restaurant deservedly featured on several guidebooks for its excellent service and classic cuisine. Closed Tue., Tel 07426530541

Trevi

An other tiny village with a dramatic setting on the mountain and an interesting, if small, Flash Art museum with contemporary works of local and international artists

Food

• Ristorante Vecchia Posta in the main Piazza Mazzini, closed Thu. Tel. 0742 381690

Castello di Campello alto

To find this  recently restored hamlet, drive to Campello sul Clitunno and then follow signs for Pettino, turn left when you see a fortified hamlet, the Castello. It is a timeless place with sweeping views over the Umbrian valley and endless olive groves.

Food

• ♥ Ristorante Le Casaline it’s near Campello sul Clitunno, on the way to Pettino, between the turn for Poreta and the turn for the Castello di Campello alto. They have a large sign on the right when you go uphill to the Castello. Take the “antipasto della casa” which includes delicious cured goose meat, it is so large and varied that it is a meal in itself. Tel. 0743521113

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Day 7 – Deruta and Torgiano

Itinerary

Drive on E75 initially direction Perugia-Florence, then Rome. Exit at Torgiano one of the major wine centers of Umbria.

Visit the Museum of wine and oil for an outstanding display of the history of oenology, wine and olive growing since antiquity.

Proceed to Deruta, 10 min South of Torgiano, which is since centuries one of the most important centers of production of ceramics in Europe. The village has an old town uphill, where the only point of interest is the regional Ceramic Museum. On the Via Tiberina, which runs parallel to the highway, you will find more than 100 workshops producing pottery and other ceramics artifacts of every form, size and price.

Our favorite artists are ♥ Ubaldo Grazia and ♥ Franco Mari. Franco Mari is very difficult to find as their sign is low on the street and often hidden by the cars parked in front of the shop. Exit the highway at Deruta Zona Industriale and follow signs for Centre. Turn right at the traffic light and drive towards the end of the village until you see Hotel Melody. Franco Mari’s shop is one of the last on the left before the Hotel. His pieces are characterized by dark backgrounds, bold colors and intricate Renaissance patterns like in the picture above. Ubaldo Grazia’s family is in the ceramic business since 1500. You can visit the factory museum and see the painters at work. This workshop produces for royalties and movie stars and for all the well know luxury shops worldwide. Prices are high but still a fraction of what you can find abroad and the quality and variety is stunning.

All ceramic artisans ship reliably all over the world. Make sure however to take detailed pictures of what you order and beware if the fact that delivery times are often optimistic. Delays of weeks and months are not unheard of. In addition, even if you are given an e-mail address, please note that not all artisans are computer savvy. Should your stuff not arrive when expected, the best thing is to call the cell phone of the person that took your order, that’s still the best way to get something done in  Italy!

Food

• In Deruta, Locanda del Bracconiere is located on the way to the old town. Good value fixed menu with great appetizer buffet. Highly popular with local business man.Via Borgo Garibaldi 8, closed Monday.

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Day 8 - Visso, Piano Grande di Colfiorito and Norcia

Itinerary

This is definitely the most spectacular drive in the region. Take E75 direction Foligno and then n.77 direction Colfiorito. This is a natural reserve, an upland plain of undulated landscape surrounded by mountain peaks. After Muccia take 208 to Visso a pretty village named the “pearl” of the Sibillini Mountains and seat of the national park. The piazza is lined with elegant 15th- and 16th-century buildings and distinguished by two pre-eminent edifices: the Collegiate Church of Santa Maria and the Church of Sant’Agostino.  The Collegiate church’s original structure, in Gothic-Romanesque style, dates back to the 12th century.

From Visso, Via Castelsantangelo drive to the Piano Grande di Castelluccio, a wildly beautiful meadow surrounded by the bare green Sibillini. Continue on to medieval Norcia well known for the extravagantly decorated cured pork and wild-bore shops.  To go back follow signs for Spoleto which will lead you to E75.

Food

• You definitely need to stop for lunch in Visso at Trattoria da Richetta in Piazza Garibaldi 7. This simple family run restaurant offers the freshest river trout from the nearby river. Make sure to reserve in advance as soon as you arrive in Visso, this restaurant is popular with the locals and always full.  Tel 0737 972033, closed Mon.

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Day 9 - Orvieto and Todi

Orvieto

From Assisi, drive on E75 initially direction Perugia-Florence, then Rome. Exit at Todi-Orvieto. The road to Orvieto is slow and windy, it is preferable not to drive it at night.
In Orvieto park at Campo della Fiera, a large underground parking lot located a few hundred meters before the city gate.

From the parking lot in Orvieto, take the elevator which will take you in Via Ripa Medici. Walk atop the impressive city walls to the archaic Church if San Giovenale. Its first restoration dates to the year 1004. Turn east and reach the Piazza del Duomo. After contemplation of the polychrome façade of the Duomo, make sure to see the Luca Signorelli frescoes in the San Brizio chapel. Buy tickets in the tourist office opposite the Duomo where you can also book the “Orvieto Underground tour”.

Should you be keen on quirky architecture, you might like to trek the two 248-step spiral staircases of the Pozzo di San Patrizio.

Food

• Trattoria dell’Orso.  An atmospheric place offering traditional dishes like truffled pheasant and the most delicious farro soup. Via della Misericordia 18-20.  Tel. 0763 341642 Closed Mon and Tue., January and a couple of weeks in July.

Todi
On your way back from Orvieto stop by Todi, even only to see the magnificent central square. Once in town, follow patiently  the several signs for “Lifts/Ascensori” which will take  you at the parking lot in Viale Montesanto from where you can ascend to the town using the convenient cable car. The little town has a beautiful setting, high up on the hill.
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Day 10 - Trasimeno Lake round trip: Castiglione del Lago, Panicale, Passignano

The Trasimeno lake is a large laminar lake, not ideal for swimming as it is only 7mt/21 ft deep. It is pleasant area with mellow views of the surrounding hills and the little islands floating on the peaceful waters.

Itinerary

Take SS 75 Dir. Florence. Exit at Castiglione del Lago and visit the Rocca del Leone, an imposing fortress along the lake shore. Continue South to Panicale, a delightful fortified hamlet. Ask locally if it’s possible to see the Perugino’s fresco in the Church of San Sebastiano, someone has the keys. Continue to Passignano by the Southern side of the lake and via Magione. In Passignano enjoy a gelato along the shore and then take the early afternoon ferry to Isola Maggiore (daily from March to October), a  small island with a tiny fishermen village.

Food

• Don’t be dispirited by the industrial surroundings at the foothill of Magione, the food at Ristorante Al Coccio compensates for the lack of ambiance, they are even mentioned in the Michelin guide. I particularly like the bean and lentil soups and the delicious ravioli with pear and walnuts. Via del quadrifoglio 12 A/ Magione, Closed Mon. Tel. 075/841829

• Ristorante Miralago offers basic but authentic home style cuisine. In the spring – if you are lucky – you can even get wild asparagus. They do not have a restaurant sign. While driving from  Magione to Passignano, turn left when you see the sign for Montecolognola. The restaurant is on the left where you see a sign of a bar, just past the entrance of the fortified hamlet of Montecolognola. Tel. 075 843150

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More ideas about what do do during your holidays in Umbria:

• If you happen to be here during the first week end of the month, visit the Antiques fair in Arezzo. Here’s a video
• Visit Urbino in the Marche region, or Siena and Cortona in Southern Tuscany, all within 1 and 1/2 hr drive from here
• If you need a place to visit on your way to Rome airport, visit Villa D’Este in Tivoli. The gardens are magnificent. You find some pictures here