Auguri! Happy Holidays and peace to all my friends and family. A special thought to all those who are alone, or ill or feeling sad. May the future bring you kindness, hope and relief.
Letizia and family from Assisi in Umbria, Italy
Weeks ago I received an email from a woman stating the following:
“we considered staying at your B&B for our holidays but we have read on your blog that you are planning to renovate the new part of the house and we are afraid the works will disturb us during our stay”.
Indeed last May, after a decade of painstaking negotiations and worries, we have fulfilled our dream and bought the second half of our farmhouse. The story is here.
Cara signora (dear lady), I hope you are reading this. Because I want to ask you why you take from me the time which I need to read your message. Then you take the time I need to reply that of course we would not dream to do any works which could disturb our guests during season. We have a B&B we quite some reputation, so why should we do something so damaging.
And then you don’t even bother to reply because you have already decided that you will not be staying here.
Cara signora I know why you have written this message. You live on a planet where – when you want a house – you ask your neighbor kindly if he wants to sell it. If he does, after a week all the papers are signed and the house is yours.
The next week you have your plans and you go to one or another public office and ask them kindly if they give you permissions to move a couple of walls, install, new windows, photovoltaic solar panels and a modern, low consumption biomass heater. “A wonderful project!” – they will say – and give you full support.
Say all the above has taken you a month. Then you get immediately all the construction companies and technical consultancy necessary to actually implement the project, order the materials and put up the scaffolding. immediately afterwards the builders speed in and start hammering making all that horrible noise.
Cara signora, can you please tell me on which planet you live? Because I want to move to this place where is possible to buy a house in May and start to the actual renovation work in September. And may be even complete it by Christmas.
I live in Italy.
It’s been 5 busy months and we haven’t even managed to put together all the crazy paperwork necessary for the solar panels on the roof. The rest of the renovation has to be presented at a later time because it needs even more crazy paperwork.
A couple of days ago, a public officer has announced that after all the documents prepared, we might not be able to install the photovoltaic panels on the roof where they would hardly be visible.
The local government prefers for us to install the panels on our beautiful fields, where they will take up much more space, be visible from very far and disrupt our magnificent view. He said that we have to hide the panels behind a 6 ft tall fence surrounded by tall trees.
Shaded solar panels. Ingenious.
Besides, as we are at the top of a hill on sloping grounds the fence would not hide the panels from view. In contrast, it would only increase the horrendous visual effect of the whole construction.
Cara signora, if you would only know how difficult it is to realize a project here, you would not even consider coming over for holidays.
Please give me the address of your world and I might start packing before it’s too late.
Today it’s a turning point in my life. I have been waiting for this since 26 December 1996. On that day Ruurd, my husband, and I walked to the top of our beautiful hill in the snow.
Here we fell in love with the incredible views of Assisi and the surrounding countryside. Despite the dilapidated aspect of the house, we bought it against the judgment of family and friends who thought we were not a little mad.
It took us 5 years of hard work and worries to move here and start Alla Madonna del Piatto B&B and cooking school.
Ours was the bigger half of a very large farmhouse.The rest was owned by someone who did not do much with it except keeping it quite messy.
Of course, from day one, we started to dream the impossible dream, buying the other half and have our island of peace all to ourselves.
For 10 years we have lived here and worked hard to make Alla Madonna del Piatto a dream for us and for our guests.
Meanwhile a lot has happened, good and bad. Today we have finally managed, we have signed the contract, the other half of the house is ours.
The house is in reasonable conditions, better than the first half we bought back in 1997, it will however need quite a bit of renovation.
This will hopefully result in one or two holiday apartments, a new and larger cooking school and finally, finally, finally an office for myself! Wow, I haven’t had an office for 10 years. It’s maybe time.
Today I feel like a princess. I own my castle. Tonight I’ll have a good sleep.
I’ve always had a fascination for old houses. When I was a child the Umbrian countryside was full of abandoned houses, castles, hamlets. Now they have all been renovated into anything from humble agriturismo to fancy spa retreats.
My parents loved to picnic near old houses. If they were safe to walk into, we would even use the fireplace to grill sausages and bread for bruschetta. What an adventure that was for us kids! The old stones told us tales of mysterious princes and queens, of secrets hidden beyond rickety stairs.
I have been “collecting” visits to old houses for a long time. It’s a wonderful way to bring yourself into the habits and culture of a place. Temples might have sublime art, but houses have stories of real people.
As a student I must have walked hundreds of times by Palazzo Bourbon di Sorbello never suspecting the wealth of art and culture hidden behind the imposing entrance. This stately mansion is not in the countryside, but in Perugia’s city centre. It’s built atop the Etruscan walls and affording breathtaking views over the old town and the Umbrian emerald hills.
Life has changed from the times I explored abandoned castles.
This is a place which is still alive. I have been recently invited to visit as the Palazzo has recently opened as a “house museum“. And what a fascinating history I have learned! The library holds an antiquarian collection of over 20 thousand volumes. The family has been in Northern Umbria for a thousand years and in Perugia for over 300 years, can you imagine? They have an Etruscan well in the basement, it’s 2500 years old.
And there is more: stories of poets and princes, of embroidery and porcelain, but I will not tell you everything.
Please go see it for yourself, it’s a truly special place. One more gem in the crown of our beautiful Umbria.
PERSIMMONS. I better hurry up and pick them before the frost makes them burst.
Every autumn it’s the same story. We first have a brief spell of leaf glory, when the proverbial Umbrian green turns to golden and red. Then rain comes, more rain than we want. Everything becomes gray except the persimmons. You see them whimsically dotting orchards and gardens with their naked orangeness.
The Umbrian fall is too cold to ripen them on the tree. We pick them and put them in plastic bags together with an apple or two. Apples release ethylene, a ripening plant-hormone. After a few days they are soft and can be eaten fresh or preserved.
It’s a very delicate fruit whose flavor boils easily away. This recipe is the result of several experiments, it’s Christmassy, aromatic and comforting. It even pleases people who don’t like persimmons, like my friend Rebecca. She has admitted to have polished a whole jar before her kids returned from school so to avoid competition.
Pectin products vary from place to place. Buy your favorite pectin and use it according to package instructions. You can also make the jam without pectin, by boiling it slowly until thick. In this case but make sure to add the spices and orange juice at the end to preserve their flavor.
Halve and juice the oranges. Reserve the juice. Put peels in a large pot and cover with cold water. Bring to a boil and cook for 3 minutes. Drain. Return peels to pot, cover with cold water, bring to a boil, cook 3 minutes, and drain. Repeat once more if you have thick skinned oranges. Strain and leave them in a colander until cool enough to handle, 20 minutes. Using a soup spoon, scrape out the membranes and discard. Cut the peels into thin strips.
Clean, peel and chop persimmons. Make sure to peel them completely because the peel becomes like hard leather once cooked.
Add the orange juice, spices and chopped peel to the cleaned and chopped persimmons.
Add pectin and sugar following package instructions. Boil and transfer into sterilized jars. Seal.
This post is dedicated to all those who have been waiting for something to finish or to begin, for a problem to solve or simply for the rain to stop.
The “Gerusalemme liberata” is an extraordinary XVI century piece of poetry by Torquato Tasso. The theme is fairly embarrassing by now, it’s about Crusades. It is however strongly symbolic of the collected efforts of men to walk steadily towards a goal. Then, when all seems lost, finally they see it in the golden light of the sun and rejoice. When I am happy, when something really works out, I chant these verses in my head and I know it’s a special day.
Ali ha ciascuno al core ed ali al piede,
né del suo ratto andar però s’accorge;
ma quando il sol gli aridi campi fiede
con raggi assai ferventi e in alto sorge,
ecco apparir Gerusalem si vede,
ecco additar Gerusalem si scorge,
ecco da mille voci unitamente
Gerusalemme salutar si sente.
Feathered their thoughts, their feet in wings were dight,
Swiftly they marched, yet were not tired thereby,
For willing minds make heaviest burdens light.
But when the gliding sun was mounted high,
Jerusalem, behold, appeared in sight,
Jerusalem they view, they see, they spy,
Jerusalem with merry noise they greet,
With joyful shouts, and acclamations sweet.
I am a lucky woman. I am blessed by lots of lovely friends in all corners of the world. Many have all sort of interesting professions and hobbies.
Some of my coolest friends, Diana, Corinna, Giulia, Gloria, Rebecca, are innkeepers, just like me. We are the new career girls, we have first gone into complicated studies at prestigious universities and/or a career in entomology, physics, law, literature, languages, etc….
Then, as an obvious and logical consequence of the above efforts, we have become innkeepers.
So here we are, each one at the top of one or another emerald-green hill trying to convince the world to switch off the iphone for a moment and come to visit. This is not an easy task, so we don’t have a lot of time to meet but when we do we have grand fun.
The recipe below is from Rebecca who lives on a green hill very near mine. In the winter, when all is quiet, we get a haircut and play the proper ladies of the house. See for yourselves how truly gracious we are:
Farrotto is a healthy version of risotto but it’s made with farro. It’s a delicious dish good for all seasons and perfect for the last chilly evenings of spring.
Farro, or spelt in English, is an heirloom Italian grain very similar to barley. One can basically replace arborio rice with pearled farro in any risotto recipe, adding a bit to the cooking time, and end up with the same creaminess but with a more complex flavor and firmer grain.
In medium saucepan, bring stock to a boil. Reduce heat to low. Meanwhile clean and chop the mushrooms and onion or shallot. In large saucepan, heat about half of the oil over medium-high heat. Add the mushrooms and cook, stirring often, until soft, about 5 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer them to a bowl and set aside. Add remaining oil and onion or shallots and cook, stirring often, until soft, about 5 minutes.
Add the farro to the pan and stir to coat with oil. Add the wine and cook, stirring until liquid is absorbed, about 1 minute until it evaporates off. Add 1 cup hot stock to pan and stir in mushrooms. Cook, stirring and adding more hot stock as it is absorbed, until the farro is tender but still firm, about 40 minutes.
Mix in the Parmesan or pecorino and adjust salt if necessary.
Serve with additional freshly grated cheese on each serving.
Variations: use red wine with strong flavored mushrooms, add asparagus or roasted squash/pumpkin, add freshly ground pepper, top with a dollop of garlicky red pepper and tomato sauce or add smoked pancetta to the initial sauté.